BROAD PEAK 8047m
47 days, Ex-Islamabad, Non-guided climb.
BROAD PEAK 8047 meters is one of four 8000 meter peaks located in a tight cluster in the upper reaches of the Baltoro Glacier, the principal access to that part of the Karakoram. It has the distinction of being in the same valley as the famous K2. Though its majesty may suffer in comparison to its big sister, Broad Peak is spectacular in its own right. This is mainly due to its unusual triple summit (which accounts for it’s name).
Base camp for Broad Peak is a short 2 hours walk from Concordia, nature’s version of a highway interchange where several glaciers merge into the Baltoro. Broad’s base camp is only a couple hours from K2 Base Camp, which might be visited in anticipation of future trips.
Expeditions to the Karakoram invariably start from Islamabad (capital of Pakistan) and its twin city of Rawalpindi (Pindi to its friends). Once the formalities with the government have been completed, you will continue on to Skardu, located in the district of Baltistan. This trip is made by one of two methods. Often preferred is the air route (when the weather permits), not only because the flight is only an hour, but also because you fly past Nanga Parbat on the way. Alternately, you may take a bus along the Indus River, first following the Karakoram Highway, then branching through the spectacular Indus River gorge as you approach Skardu. The latter route is long, but recommended at least once during multiple visits to the region.
From Skardu, you will jeep to Askoli, the last village on the trek. A couple long days bring you to Paiju and the tongue of the Baltoro. Here you will take a rest day as the porters prepare their food for the glacier. Your next stop is Urdukas, a grassy knoll located immediately opposite the Trango Towers and Uli Biaho. Your porters will likely be willing to push the next day to Concordia, which has spectacular views not only of K2 & Broad, but also Gasherbrum IV. They will do this because they will have time the next day to reach BC and return.
Broad Peak has the reputation of being one of the easier 8000 meter peaks. Though the route is not technically challenging, it is not a mountain to be taken lightly since the route crosses prominent avalanche terrain. Base Camp is at 5000 meters. Sub-camps are typically placed at around 5800, 6250 & 6900 meters. Some expeditions attempt the summit from C3 -- others place an additional camp at 7400 meters. From the summit, you will see the entire Karakoram, including the Gasherbrums (I-VII), Masherbrum, Mustagh Tower and Chogolisa.
Depending on the weather, Broad Peak can be completed in as little as six weeks (Pindi-Pindi) or as long as nine weeks. The return trip is often over the 6000 meter Gondogoro La (subject to permission) and the beautifully green Hushe Valley from which you return to Skardu.
